Cartier Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil “Burgundy” SM (circa late 1970s)

WHY WE CURATED IT:
The importance of Must de Cartier Tanks is often overlooked as one of the main contributors to the survival of Cartier some 50-odd years ago when the boom of post-WWII France faded, and with it, demand for luxury goods. At the same time, cheap mass-produced quartz watches were flooding in from Asia. Cartier’s solution? Make accessible versions of the (otherwise full-gold) iconic Tank Louis but in gold-plated 925 silver (vermeil) instead, and mostly with Swiss quartz calibres. This runaway success kept Cartier’s watch business afloat, unlike much of the European industry. This version is from an early batch in the SM size with an ultra-chic, coveted “Plain Burgundy” dial which come from the earliest vermeil Tanks that launched the series. And uncommonly, with a manual-wind mechanical movement. In great all-original condition, serviced and warrantied, with original Cartier buckle, as well as a Cartier travel pouch. Snag this time capsule and forever icon of elegance as these do not show up often!

CONDITION:
9/10, with minimal light hairlines only. Most of the wear is on the original buckle, with some rainbow patina appreciated by vintage aficionados as “natural art” that only the passage of time can craft. Original “Swiss-only” burgundy lacquer dial is clean and uncommonly with no visible spidering! Some tiny microscopic marks on the original crystal and there are some slight age spots on the original hands. Caseback engravings/hallmarks deep and crisp. Aftermarket burgundy strap is used but with plenty of life remaining. Movement serviced with a 6-month warranty and in great health with near-spec power reserve, high amplitude, moderate beat error and accurate to ±20 secs/day averaged from 6 timegrapher positions.

DIMENSIONS:
20.7mm width excl. crown
28.2mm length incl. lugs
6.7mm thickness
15mm lug width
Visual dial width ~13.5mm
Wrist in photos is 15.8cm

CRYSTAL:
Mineral glass

CASE:
925 silver, 20 micron gold-plating

WATER RESISTANCE:
Assumed none, per vintage watches

STRAP:
Aftermarket burgundy alligator strap and Cartier buckle (14mm)

CALIBRE:
Cartier Cal. 78-1, 2-hander manual-winder

COMES WITH:
Watch, aftermarket strap, Cartier buckle, Cartier pouch

TERMS OF SALE:
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