Cartier Tank Allongée Small Ref. 828004 18k Yellow Gold (Circa 1990s)

WHY WE CURATED IT:
The history of the Tank Allongée goes back much further than its small size might suggest. Cartier introduced the elongated Tank in 1922, as the Maison explored just how far it could push the proportions of its original rectangular design. Alongside the Tank Louis Cartier and Tank Cintrée, the Allongée showed how dramatically the character of an established design could change simply by altering its proportions.

That ability to experiment without losing its identity is one of the things I find most interesting about Cartier. Over more than a century, the Maison has produced cases that are elongated, curved, square and sometimes wonderfully unconventional, yet a Cartier is often recognisable almost immediately. Much of that consistency comes from the dial.

On the Ref. 828004, the familiar chemin de fer minute track runs around the perimeter, framed by elongated Roman numerals and slim blued épée hands. The latter take their name from their pointed, sword like shape, a small detail that becomes particularly noticeable against the restrained dial. Look a little closer and there is even a tiny Cartier signature tucked discreetly near 7 o’clock. None of these elements is particularly complicated, but together they form a visual vocabulary that remains unmistakably Cartier.

The Allongée is a particularly good demonstration of that vocabulary. Its long, slender case gives the Tank an entirely different presence from the more familiar rectangular references, yet the dial immediately brings it back to familiar territory. Even at the petite scale of the Ref. 828004, there is no mistaking what it is.

And yes, it is a very small watch. Cased in 18k yellow gold and finished with such delicate proportions, it sits somewhere between wristwatch and jewellery. But that is also part of its appeal. Contemporary collecting has become considerably less interested in the idea that certain sizes or designs belong exclusively to one gender, and the Allongée is the sort of watch that benefits from that broader perspective. Its proportions are simply part of the design, and on the right wrist they can be remarkably elegant.

For me, that is what makes the Allongée so compelling. Cartier took one of the most recognisable designs in watchmaking and pushed its proportions far enough to create something that feels almost like a different watch, without sacrificing the details that make it a Tank. It is small, undeniably elegant and perhaps a little unconventional, but that is precisely where its character lies.

CONDITION:
8.5/10. The 18k yellow gold case remains in excellent overall condition for its age, with only minor signs of wear from previous use. Some oxidation is also present, consistent with the age and vintage character of the watch. 

The Cartier Cal. 28 quartz movement is running well.

This watch is offered alongside a Cartier presentation box, fitted with an aftermarket calf leather strap and aftermarket Cartier-style tang buckle.

DIMENSIONS:
14.5mm diameter excl. cabochon crown
6.2mm thickness
28.3mm lug-to-lug
9mm lug width
Wrist in photos is 16cm 

CRYSTAL:
Sapphire glass

CASE:
18k yellow gold

WATER RESISTANCE:
Assumed none, per vintage watches

STRAP:
Aftermarket calf leather strap with aftermarket Cartier-style tang buckle

CALIBRE:
Cartier Cal. 28, quartz

COMES WITH:
Watch and presentation box

TERMS OF SALE:
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