Longines Art Deco Tank Ref. MZ5712 'Champagne Dial' (Circa 1980s)

WHY WE CURATED IT:
There is something particularly charming about the way Longines approached the rectangular dress watch in the 1980s. Rather than simply reproducing the Tank watches of earlier decades, the Ref. MZ5712 takes the familiar proportions of the form and gives them a distinctly period interpretation.

Measuring 23.5mm x 33.3mm, its elongated case has the restrained geometry associated with the rectangular dress watch, but the details make it unmistakably of its time. The champagne dial is sober and clean, with a subtle crosshatch texture that adds depth without disturbing the simplicity of the layout. It is elegant without being overly formal, and detailed without ever becoming busy.

The bracelet, however, is where the watch really comes into its own. Rather than treating it as an afterthought, Longines made it an important part of the design. The integrated construction flows directly from the case, while the multiple rows and ribbed surfaces continue its geometry around the wrist. The effect is almost jewellery-like, giving the watch considerably more presence than its restrained dial might suggest.

That contrast is what I find most appealing about the Ref. MZ5712. The dial does very little, while the bracelet does almost everything. Yet the two never compete. The restraint of the dial allows the bracelet to carry the visual drama, while the elaborate construction gives an otherwise simple watch much of its character.

It is also a good example of why watches from this period deserve more attention. The 1980s occupy an awkward place in vintage collecting, sitting between the romance of earlier mechanical watches and the modern era of quartz. But that transitional period produced some wonderfully unconventional designs. Case shapes became more adventurous, proportions changed and bracelets were often treated as an integral part of the watch rather than simply something attached to it.

Inside is Longines Cal. L963.2, a quartz movement that reflects that same transition. There is naturally less mechanical romance here than with an older Longines, but that is almost beside the point. The Ref. MZ5712 was not an old fashioned mechanical design adapted to quartz technology. It was conceived during a period when quartz was changing what a dress watch could look like, and the watch feels much more interesting when viewed in that context.

There is also something about wearing it that is difficult to quantify. Perhaps it is the elongated proportions, perhaps it is the bracelet, but it has a slightly theatrical quality that makes you feel rather more dressed up than you might expect from such a small watch. During my time with it, I found myself imagining it on the wrist of a gentleman or distinguished lady from another era. It is a slightly silly thought, perhaps, but the watch genuinely has that effect.

Ultimately, the Ref. MZ5712 is interesting precisely because it does not try to hide its era. It is a distinctly 1980s interpretation of the rectangular dress watch, pairing an understated dial with an unusually elaborate bracelet. Decades later, that combination still works, largely because Longines committed so fully to the design.

CONDITION:
8/10. The watch remains in excellent overall condition, with visible signs of wear throughout the case and bracelet consistent with previous use. The dial remains clean and legible, with its original textures well preserved.

The gold-plated case and bracelet have developed an even, warm patina over time, which adds very well to the watch’s vintage character.

The original sticker remains attached to the caseback, as shown in the listing photographs.

The Longines Cal. L963.2 quartz movement is running well.

Offered as watch only.

DIMENSIONS:
23.5mm diameter excl. crown
33.3mm length incl. integrated lugs
5.2mm thickness
Wrist in photos is 16cm

CRYSTAL:
Mineral glass

CASE:
Steel, gold-plated

WATER RESISTANCE:
Assumed none, as per vintage watches

BRACELET:
Longines multilink integrated gold-plated bracelet (links fit max 17.5cm wrists) 

CALIBRE:
Longines Cal. L963.2, quartz

COMES WITH:
Watch only

TERMS OF SALE:
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